“Genius is nothing but continued attention.” - Claude Adrien Helvetius


I had always previously thought Roberto Cavalli's designs outrageously safari and way too tropical LA for my discreet east coastal American fashion partialities. But I totally changed my mind when the new store at the Forum stopped me in my tracks with its adorable flirty skirts and sexy preppy blouses.

So I did some research online and found his new 2010 RST collection which I am unbelievably wild about. With its fun eclectic colorful mix of butterfly motifs and zebra prints alongside clean tailored solids, it is typical of a Resort collection for the nouveau riche and would not be out of place on St Tropez.

I like that it retains a structured element within its comfortably laidback aesthetic and doesn't disintegrate into a sloppy bohemian mess like the occasional RST collections are wont to do.

“Literature adds to reality, it does not simply describe it. It enriches the necessary competencies that daily life requires and provides; and in this respect, it irrigates the deserts that our lives have already become.” - C.S. Lewis

Montblanc and Signature International, in commissioning a series of collection of photographic portraits inspired by literature, have brought chick lit to an entirely new level.

In Christian Lacroix as Esmerelda

Milla Jovovich looks spectacular in Christian Lacroix but one can hardly relate her to Esmerelda, the 16-year-old gypsy girl with a trained goat act, who is hanged as a witch in Victor Hugo's “Notre Dame de Paris”.

The photographs are by Roger Moenks and the artworks, each signed by the actress who modeled for it, are currently on exhibition at Sotheby’s in New York.

"I consider lace to be one of the prettiest imitations ever made of the fantasy of nature; lace always evokes for me those incomparable designs which the branches and leaves of trees embroider across the sky, and I do not think that any invention of the human spirit could have a more graceful or precise origin." - Coco Chanel

Chanel Lace Shades

Looking at lace in a whole new way.

“The couture is what a certain kind of clientele wears. But it's amusing to do because you do it piece by piece. It's another concept. It's much more work.” - Karl Lagerfeld

I look forward to the new collections brought forward every year, twice a year, Spring and Fall. They show me what the creative geniuses behind the various houses and labels have been laboring at and what they think we should be wearing in the year ahead (rightly or wrongly). I love the colors and vibrancy of the Spring collections and the sharp tailoring and muted tones of the Fall collections, marveling at the reflection a change in seasons has on fashion and moods.

But most of all, I look forward to the haute couture collections.

Not many designers do a haute collection because it is deemed nonviable for business reasons. Its sheer flamboyance and often dramatic voice comes with a hefty price tag, which only a very select niche of customers can afford. And even so, they only wear it once for the impact, and it is then relinquished to the back of a very expensive wardrobe or bequeathed to a couture museum for posterity.

Christian Lacroix is one such designer.

Below are some of his more wearable pieces :

Christian Lacroix 2009 CT

Christian Lacroix 2009 CT

The former is an interesting spin on a nautical theme, classic yet trendy at the same time. The latter is a complete kaleidoscope of colors that seem to come together beautifully like a tropical bird, something that wouldn't look out of place in the Caribbean.

His RTW collections contain interesting elements and one can see very clearly where he got his inspirations and how they are modernised and adapted for the woman on the street :

Christian Lacroix Spring 2009 RTW

Christian Lacroix Spring 2009 RTW

The former reminds one of Aboriginal Australian art while the latter brings to mind a Spanish matador, both very different yet somehow fit together under Monsieur Lacroix's deft direction.

The Fall collection too is an interesting one, simple yet elegantly chic :

Christian Lacroix Fall 2009 RTW

Christian Lacroix Fall 2009 RTW

Lace seemed to have played an important role in his Fall collection and instead of succumbing to greys, blacks and browns he has chosen to use mustard and champagne, enhanced by the texture of the fabrics used, amongst them silk and velvet.

Creative and functional, c'est Monsieur Lacroix.

“O, wind, if winter comes, can spring be far behind?” - Percy Bysshe Shelley

I have never seen snow.

OK I have but only on the ground and not heavy flurries of it blanketing everything in a cold white mass, thick enough to make snow angels and snow men, solid enough to ski and snowboard on.

Growing up in the tropics, I was never a big fan of the cold, although I do enjoy the Fall collections of many designers and look forward to wearing scarves, gloves and boots when I go on vacation, de rigeur accessories for people who are fortunate enough to live in a place with four seasons.

However, while I would like to go snowboarding some day, I wasn't too keen on the puffy ski jackets in lurid colors and unflattering designs, until I saw these:

Aphrodite

Calliope

Euterpe

Moncler has completely revolutionised winter sportswear with its move towards the fashion orbit and the Gamme Rouge collection above, a collaboration with celebrated designers like Balenciaga, Junya Watanabe, Alessandra Facchinetti could not be more inviting than a hand delivered air ticket to St Moritz.

“I love luxury. And luxury lies not in richness and ornateness but in the absence of vulgarity. Vulgarity is the ugliest word in our language. I stay in the game to fight it.” - Coco Chanel

I will never forget the scene in Sex and the City where Aleksandr Petrovsky gifts Carrie Bradshaw with an Oscar de la Renta cocktail dress in hot pink. I suspect the gesture and the objet d' affection drew a collective gasp and turned fashionistas an unflattering shade of green the world over.

Carrie Bradshaw in Oscar de la Renta

I also recall the scene where Carrie and Aleksandr take turns reading to each other :

Carrie : How about I read you a little bit of my favorite poetry?
Aleksandr : Please.
Carrie [Reads from Vogue] : "Cocktails at Tiffany's calls for classic charm. Oscar de la Renta sleeveless silk full skirted dress with black patent leather bow belt." Now that is pure poetry.

In the world of couture, few express understated luxury in all its multi jewel hued glory like Oscar de la Renta, and his Fall 2009 RTW collection is a rich fine example :






And the piece de resistance :

A lamé leopard dress

Stunning.

Absolutely stunning.

“All women do have a different sense of sexuality, or sense of fun, or sense of like what's sexy or cool or tough.” - Angelina Jolie

Sometimes, the best discoveries are the accidental ones.

Serendipity. Such a beautiful word with even lovelier connotations.

A friend of mine who is incredibly passionate about shoes, so much so she quit her job as a high flying lawyer to open her own boutique of niche shoe labels, sent me an article about Rupert Sanderson shoes.

What caught my eye instead however, was the dress that the featured celeb was wearing :

Gwyneth Paltrow at the Two Lovers premiere in Paris

A quick search on Google informed me that the dress was part of the Spring 2009 RTW collection of one Antonio Berardi, who was according to Style.com, " ... a pretty well kept secret until Gwyneth Paltrow surprised everyone by wearing his trompe l'oeil corset dress" and " ... cosmopolitan as he is, it's his Roman Catholic upbringing that he frequently returns to ... " for inspiration.

Antonio Berardi Spring 2009 RTW

Antonio Berardi Spring 2009 RTW

Antonio Berardi Fall 2009 RTW

Indeed, the description that Antonio Berardi approaches his designs with the Catholic Madonna-whore aesthetic is one that is spot on. Strict and sexy, all in one fitted package.

“We must always change, renew, rejuvenate ourselves; otherwise we harden." - Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

It's always exciting when a house or label brings a new designer on board or experiences rejuvenation in the forms of collaborations and re-branding. Or when the chief executive designer loses 92.6 pounds and gains a fresh new perspective on life and fashion.

One of my favourites is the house of Halston, which having been relaunched several times was most recently rescued from the dead by Marco Zanini. Unfortunately, the longtime first designer of Donatella Versace has since departed after receiving mixed reviews last season despite a strong retail showing. I did love the unusual colors in his collection, amongst them mint, orange and lavender. A design team has been rolling out the collections for both 2009's collections, and although they look sufficiently chic and cheerful even for Fall, it's nothing much of a breakthrough.

Halston Fall 2008 RTW

Halston Fall 2009 RTW

Another house I like is that of Sonia Rykiel. Highly unconventional and not very wearable, occasionally bizarre but always whimsical and tres tres French.

Sonia Rykiel Spring 2009 RTW

Sonia Rykiel Fall 2009 RTW

Sonia Rykiel Fall 2009 RTW

C'est beau.

“Quirky is sexy, like scars or chipped teeth. I also like tattoos - they're rebellious.” - Jennifer Aniston

I'm a huge huge fan of Marc Jacobs.

In fact, I'm wearing one of his designs as I write, a short thigh skimming grape number with white cutout designs all over.

Even la mere, who is usually nonplussed about fashion, thinks it is a really adorable dress.

So I'm quite psyched that Marc Jacobs has been nominated for the 2009 CFDA Fashion Awards for Designer of the Year and for Accessories, on top of receiving the International Award for his work at Louis Vuitton.

Personally though, if push comes to shove, I prefer his competitor Narciso Rodriguez for Designer of the Year. Marc Jacobs might be quirky and fun, but no one beats Narciso Rodriguez for clean and interesting designs that somehow emanate a kind of edgy sexiness at the same time. It is no wonder he is also known as "....New York's most rigorous designer".

Narciso Rodriguez Spring 2009 RTW

I got myself this incredible Marc Jacobs dress which I absolutely adore :

Marc Jacobs Spring 2009 RTW

This was followed by a brief sojourn into the Land of Lim :

3.1 Phillip Lim Spring RTW 2009

3.1 Phillip Lim Spring 2009 RTW

I like Phillip Lim for simple deconstructed designs that are slightly off-kilter, not to the point where it's unwearable like some Japanese designers.

Anna Sui's Spring 2009 RTW is updated hippie boho chic :

Anna Sui Spring 2009 RTW

One really can't see much from the pictures, but up close the embroidery and detail is absolutely beautiful. The belts are weaved in a multitude of colors and manages to introduce an added layer of interest to the dress without overwhelming it.

I know I prolly should be reflecting more on the Fall 2009 designs, but those are so drab and dull compared to the more lively Spring 2009 designs! Anyway, it's still Spring and Summer in the normal mortal world, heh.

“Autumn is a second spring where every leaf is a flower. - Albert Camus

Le sigh.

The 2009 Fall Collection to date is so depressing.

Too much black.

Although I must say, Balmain has cemented itself to be THE go-to label for tres sexe mini dresses for the Fall season. If I were a super heroine, I would so hire them as my couturier :

Balmain Fall RTW 2009

Balmain Fall RTW 2009

There were also of course, some classic gems which seldom disappoint :

Valentino Fall RTW 2009

Valentino Fall RTW 2009

Valentino, unfailingly elegant and luxurious. The kneee length cocktail dress wouldn't look out of place on Lauren Bacall while the floor length gown appears to be inspired by an Indian sari.

Lovely.

"I think it is in collaboration that the nature of art is revealed." - Steve Lacy

The line between performance and design is fast becoming blurred, and nowhere is it more prominent than in fashion when fashion labels collaborate with celebrities for limited editions or lines unique to said collaborator's style. Examples can be seen from street fashion i.e. Kate Moss for UK label Topshop to luxury high end fashion i.e. Stephen Sprouse for Louis Vuitton.

Entre nous, I think the above are highly overrated and I really don't see the big deal about either of the collections. Hardly avant garde or gush-worthy.

However, I am quite excited to see the new collaboration between Christina Aguilera for Topshop and I do prefer Sofia Coppola's creations for Louis Vuitton over Stephen Sprouse :

Sofia Coppola with the SC bag in calf leather
The Sofia Coppola Collection

I like that Sofia Coppola has chosen to feature the bags in unusual colours like russet and cobalt, which are wearable yet not too commonly pedestrian.

“In the Spring, I have counted 136 different kinds of weather inside of 24 hours.” - Mark Twain

I can't be in Japan this spring for sakura season because of prior commitments, so I am going to live vicariously through this lovely cocktail dress :

Tskye Kyoko Cocktail Dress

I am a huge fan of Singaporean designer Alexia Ho's label Tskye. Alexia Ho was trained at Parson's in New York and interned at Vera Wang, and her designs veer towards chic vintage in designer fabrics. Elegant and quirky, Alexia's designs are perfect for day or nights, for any occasion.

Speaking of Japan, I am psyched that casual wear retailer Uniqlo is finally setting up shop here :

Uniqlo Spring 2009

Uniqlo's spring campaign offers its signature skinny jeans in a myriad of fresh fun colors, and I am rather excited at checking them out although knowing my tendency towards the classic safe designs, I am likely to buy a pair in dark blue or black. Unfortunately the first store opens next month in Tampines, which is practically the equivalent of a day trip to Malaysia. Why they chose to have it in the heartland boondocks I will never comprende.

“A forest bird never wants a cage.” - Henrik Ibsen

Touche.

However, if said 'cage' refers to these killer ankle boots :

Yves Saint Laurent Cage Ankle Boots

And if you think these are mad, how about a pair that will literally catch you in a bind and drive you completely over the edge :

Rodarte Fall 2009

And still on the subject of boots, Sarah Harding totally pulls off these black Georgina Goodman ankle boots with her brilliantly fabulous loud and trendy outfit :

Sarah Harding shows how clashing colours actually work

“Spring is nature's way of saying, "Let's party!"” - Robin Williams

Oh curses.

I tried this on three weeks ago but somehow deemed it 'too pretty' to be worn about on a daily casual basis. I mean, I'm hardly the kind who floats around in chiffon having high tea, am I? Not to mention the pastel-ness of this airy concoction makes fair skinned moi look a wee bit washed out :

Fendi Spring RTW 2009

Now I slightly regret not buying it.

Then again, some tacky so-called local celeb is wearing it on the cover of this week's local gossip rag, so it's prolly just as well. I am of the staunch sartorial opinion my electric blue Dior mini dress was a much better purchase.

But Karl Lagerfeld is undoubtedly wickedly genius about details :

Fendi Fall 2009 RTW

I absolutely adore how the dress is dramatic and delicate at the same time, its inky purple balanced with intricate detailing and soft chiffon.

C'est beau!

“Mere colour, unspoiled by meaning, and unallied with definite form, can speak to the soul in a thousand different ways.” - Oscar Wilde

It all started when Maman and I went shopping and she picked out a drab navy blue silk shirt dress by Marc Jacobs, which led me to lift my hands in dismay and announce:

"Couleur, maman! Non plus sombres!"

I'm tres tired of black and dark shades like navy blue and chocolate ... it's supposed to be spring still, and with all that depressing news going on in the economy, I think we should wear some bright colors to lift everyone's spirits, especially our own.

Which is what brings me to the dress du jour :

Just Cavalli Print Dress

Few do excess as well as Roberto Cavalli, and this strapless tie dyed print dress with a draped back and clever ruching detail throughout is a fine fine demonstration of his appeal to the younger crowd for Just Cavalli.

Anyone remember the scene where Carrie Bradshaw fights with Aidan Shaw over her Roberto Cavalli dress? Boys, do not I repeat do NOT give your missus an ultimatum between beloved fashion item and yourself. Because you might just lose. By a fairly wide margin.

Of course, a dress however spectacular, never quite hits the wow factor without accessories :

Louis Vuitton Louisette Small Ring

Louis Vuitton Crown Ring

The first is part of Louis Vuitton creative consultant Camile Miceli's Louisette collection and nestled within its petals are pink sapphires, rubies and diamonds. Tres exquise. The second is a collaboration between Camile Miceli and hip hop singer Pharrell Williams, and is made of pink gold adorned with pink sapphires and diamonds. A perfect combination of sophistication and ghetto street cred.

These have been out for ages, but I only just got into the accessories groove. What can I say, I'm a late bloomer.